I decided that if anything could securely hold these two pieces together it would be Gorilla Glue. Marking on the back of the fixture in pencil, I measured from each corner to determine the center.īefore affixing the plate, I removed a small portion of the thin plastic coating from the back of the fixture, then lightly roughed up the surface with sandpaper in order to provide better adhesion for the glue. To do this, I purchased an Avenger 6” baby plate for about $15. This way I would have a standard 5/8” stud affixed to the light, which could easily be mounted to the grip head of a C-stand. I considered several options for mounting the fixture, but in the end, I decided on the simplest: I’d use heavy-duty adhesive to mount a baby plate to the back of the fixture. The biggest challenge is turning it from a ceiling-mounted fixture into a light that can be affixed to a stand for studio use. It’s a self-contained unit that, once wired, is ready to go.
It’s a 50-watt, 5000k panel measuring 2×4 feet and weighing 14 pounds that cost me only $110 including shipping. Rather than shelling out several hundred dollars for a proper LED studio light, I could do it myself for a fraction of the cost.Īfter a bit of research, I decided to purchase an EiKO slim LED panel, model SLM24-50/C5/850. A quick Google search revealed just how affordable the light would be, and with that, I was inspired. Quite thin (just half an inch thick) with a clean profile, it struck me that this large 2-by-4-foot panel would make an ideal key light for still portraits and video shoots. Not only are LED lights much more affordable and convenient than fluorescent tubes or incandescent bulbs, but they’re also much more energy-efficient.Īs the electrician was prepping one of the units for the ceiling, I took note of how impressive it was. Not long ago, we updated the overhead lights in my studio, replacing the fluorescent fixtures with LED light panels.
0 kommentar(er)
